Getting Ready - SAL Patchwork Plum Dress

First of all, thank you so much for joining me here. We are going to have a lot of fun making this super cute patchwork version of the Plum Dress :) I released this pattern back in 2020 (yep, that year) and it comes in two size ranges with a B or a D cup and up to a 156cm/ 63'' hip for the extended size range.

Today, we will take a look at the patchwork layout I went for, fabrics I used, pattern sizes, useful tools and where to find the materials to make this exact same version (although of course, you can make your own with the fabrics of your choice). Let's start!

PATTERN AND SIZES

The first step in this sew-along would be to get the Plum pattern if you don't have it already (remember to use your subscriber discount!), donwload it and print it at home (A4 version), or send it to a copy-shop (for the A0 option), ready for the next step.

Before I continue, I think it is a good moment to mention that, in my case, I went for size 10 of the B cup, as I knew from making my regular samples that it would work for me.

Always check the finished garment measurements chart on the instructions (or below) to get a better idea of the ease included in the original design. 

*If you are in between sizes, always go for the larger.

 

When you have your pattern printed, cut / trace the pattern pieces for the long sleeve dress version in your desired size. You will need: front bodice, back bodice, inseam pockets, front and back skirt pieces, sleeves and optional cuffs for the sleeves.

RECOMMENDED FABRIC AND OTHER MATERIALS

Let's talk about our favourite part now, the fabrics! I am going to share which ones I chose, how much I got (for my size) for each colour and what you'll need to make your own version.

Even though this is sort of a quilt project (more patchwork, but still), we also want for the fabrics to have some drape and movement to them as that's what's required for a dress like Plum. That's why, traditional quilting cotton won't work in this case. 

You can, on one hand, follow the recommendations I give on the instructions: Light to medium-weight woven fabrics with drape such as cotton, lawn, chambray, rayon, viscose, linen, double gauze, crepe, flannel, light denim, light needlecord, corduroy... 

Or! you can go for a type of fabric originally used on quilts but that due to its softness and drape, it can also be chosen for a project like this.

When I discovered Fableism fabrics a while ago, I saw them mainly used on quilts but my sewist brain couldn't stop thinking about how amazing they would look on a garment. So when the idea for a patchwork version of Plum presented, I went straight to A Beautiful Thing to see which Fableism fabrics would work best. Jo, the lovely owner, kindly gifted me a kit with 8 1/2 yards, 1 from each colour.

• Fableism Sprout Woven Collection total of 4 yards / 3.65m:   
• Cider: 1/2 yard.
• Honey: 1/2 yards.
• Mulberry: 1/2 yards.
• Nightshade: 1/2 yards.
• Oat: 1/2 yards.
• Pansy: 1/2 yards.
• Pumpkin: 1/2 yards.
• Umber: 1/2 yards.

     

   

Apart from these, I used:

• Bias binding: to finish the neckline and to hem the dress. I opted for Mind the Maker bias tape that I got here in the Netherlands in a sort of terracota shade. It is not mandatory finishing the hem with bias binding, but I always think it looks so much nicer.

• Thread: 
• Gütermann 100% polyester for sewing the dress together plus overlocking thread as that's how I finished all the inner seams of the dress.
  
  
• Interfacing: for the button placket.
  
  
• 5 x 1cm or 1.2cm wide buttons and a cute label!

HOW MUCH FABRIC YOU'LL NEED

If you are making the same version I made and using a similar composition / fabrics, you can find kits for both size ranges at A Beautiful Thing (based in the UK) and at Floy the Fox (located in Germany). 

The amount of fabric I used in total was a bit less than the 4 yards, so around 3.5m (there was some leftover but not much). This varies in approx. 1m from what's suggested on the instructions for my size range and the long sleeve version, which is 2.55m. You can use this as a guidance when planning how much fabric you need for your own dress.

Below you can find the fabric requirements for the cup B size range first and for the cup D range second. All this information is also on the instructions when you get the pattern.

If you want to make your own version using scraps you already have at home, the best idea is to use the full size pattern pieces and play with your fabrics placing them on top. Remember that there will be a seam joining them, so you will need to create a panel slightly bigger than each pattern piece. More than 8 different prints might be too much, less than 5 might be too little.

Next week, I will go into more detail on how I created my patchwork design. For now, remember to pre-wash all your fabrics / scraps, ready for the next step. 

OTHER USEFUL TOOLS

Last, apart from what I mentioned above, you will need your usual sewing tools: unpicker, fabric marker, sewing machine and optional overlocker, pins, hand sewing needle, tape measure, fabric scissors, trimming scissors... And you might also need some sewing / tracing paper, a pencil and ruler to work on the patchwork design next week.

And that is it for the Getting Ready week! I hope it was not too much. I promise that as soon as you have this figured out, the rest of the posts will be much more visual and fun :) Now you have a two-week break to gather your materials, get the pattern printed, find your size, etc... I will see you again on Saturday the 12th of October!

PS. You can contact me at any time on Instagram or by email at hi@cocowawacrafts.com if you have any doubts :)

Thank you for tagging along and happy sewing!

Ana

xxx