Hi loveky makers!
I am back with a new sewing technique that I personally love and it is finishing a raw edge (hem, neckline, armhole...) with bias tape instead of the tradicional hem or facing. To me, it makes it look very professional and it works wonders when dealing with a curved hem on, for example, a circular skirt.
Example of the Patchwork Plum's neckline
Regarding the type of bias tape, I always prefer soft cotton or viscose rather than the too stiff cotton (?) ones that you sometimes can find at haberdasheries.
The Atelier Brunette viscose bindings are some of my favourite
About the width, I usually choose a bias tape that is 1cm wide when double folded, although sometimes I might go for a 2cm wide tape when hemming a skirt or a dress.
Also, some come with the folded edges not meeting in the center, which really annoys me as I count on those lines made by the folds when stitching the tape in place (as they usually mark a 1cm seam allowance or from the edge of the presser foot).
This is the type I prefer VS...
The annoying one that creates a tiny fold
(don't try to iron them flat. Almost impossible!)
Now, let's move onto the actual tutorial on how to use the bias binding!
Steps to apply bias tape to a neckline or armhole
Let's start with how to finish a neckline or an armhole with bias binding.
1. First, press out one of the folded sides of the tape. Place it on top of the neckline with right sides together and matching the edge of the fabric with the pressed edge of that side of the tape. Pin them both together and leave an extra 3cm of tape at the end.
2. Start sewing the bias binding in place but leaving around 2cm unstitched at the beginning. Follow the line marked on the inside of the bias tape as your guide. It should be at a 1cm (seam allowance distance) from the edge or the presser foot width.
Before reaching the end, fold the longer end by 1cm and place the other end inside it as shown below. Cut to adjust if necessary, pin and finish stitching the bias tape to the neckline.
3. Now, press the other side of the bias tape towards the outside of the garment / neckline and edgestitch the seam and tape in place by stitching at 2-3mm distance from the inner part of the tape and on the bias tape side.
4. The next step would be to fold and press the bias tape towards the inside of the neckline. Do this with the wrong side of the garment out to make it easier. Then, pin again the tape in place, covering the previous seam and stitch just 2-3mm from the inner fold this time.
5. Give your neckline a final pressed and voilà! Super profesional finished for your garment!
And you can replicate this with armholes in exactly the same way.
And what about a hem?
You can follow all the previous steps but, for me, it is best going for a wider bias tape.
I used this technique again when finishing the hem of my Patchwork Plum Dress, although I have used it many times in the past.
And that is it for this tutorial! I hope you found it useful and interesting. Let me know in the comments!
Ana
xxx