Getting Ready - QAL / SAL Quilted Nutmeg Jacket

Welcome to the first post of this quiltsew-along! (I am starting to love the word, hehe).

First of all, thank you so much for joining me here. We are going to have a lot of fun making this super cute quilted version of Nutmeg :)

Today, we will take a look at the design I chose for my jacket, how you can modify it if you are beginner, which materials I used and how much you will need to get, as well as highlighting tools that will make your job easier. Let's start with the design.

NOTE: I will be using inches generally along the quiltsew-along and particularly during the cutting of the fabric for the outer shell of the jacket and block piecing stages. I recommend not transforming them to the metric system. Some parts offer both imperial and metric.

9-PATCH BLOCS AND SOLID SQUARES

After much consideration and after running a poll on social media, I decided to combine 3''x3'' 9-patch blocks with 3''x3'' solid blocks (this is the final measurement of the blocks when sewn together. The original measurement is 3 1/4''x3 1/4''. The 9-patch blocks are made out of 9 1 1/2''x1 1/2'' squares). I think that squares in general work well with quilted jackets and coats, and it would also be easier for beginner quilters as a first project.

Here you can see an initial draft I made using Illustrator to check how the design would look.

You can of course go for bigger squares (not sure if I'd recommend smaller, as it would take longer to finish) or for plain 3x3'' blocks instead of adding the 9-patch blocks (a good idea for beginners). You can choose solids or prints or a mix of them.

Now it would be a good moment to grab a piece of paper, pencil and some colours, and doodle how your ideal quilted jacket would look. Take a look as well at your stash if you don't want to buy new fabric (just remember that you will need quite a bit of it) and maybe find inspiration from Instagram or Pinterest.

Below you can see how I played with scraps of the fabric I wanted to use using the paper pattern pieces of Nutmeg.

I also did a test using scraps.

PATTERN AND SIZES

The next step on this quiltsew-along would be to get the Nutmeg pattern if you don't have it already (remember to use your subscriber discount!), donwload it and print it at home (A4 version), or send it to a copy-shop (for the A0 option), ready for the next step.

Before I continue, I think it is a good moment to mention that, in my case, I went for size 10 of the B cup (there are two size ranges available), as I knew from making my regular samples that it would work for me.

You need to have in mind that, as the jacket is quilted, you might need to go one size up to allow for the wadding and the lining and to have enough freedom of movement. Check the finished garment measurements chart on the instructions (or below) to get a better idea of the ease included in the original design. Nutmeg is available in two size ranges up to a 156cm / 63'' hip.

*If you are in between sizes, always go for the larger and even up one more to allow for the extra material.

   

Now, cut / trace the pattern pieces for the jacket (make sure it is not the trench version) in your desired size. You will need: front bodice, back bodice, upper collar (ignore the lower collar piece), inseam or patch pockets (I went for inseam even though they are supposed to be for the trench), optional ruffle piece for the collar and sleeves.

NOTE: The original back bodice pattern piece is meant to be cut on the fold. In this case, we need to create a piece of outer shell with our blocks that will cover the whole back as if it is one piece. You can trace a mirrored back piece and tape it to the one you have printed out. Same with the upper collar.

RECOMMENDED FABRIC AND WHAT I USED

Let's talk about our favourite part now, the fabric! I am going to share which ones I used, how much I got (for my size) and how you can calculate what you need for your own version.

Before I start, I want to share a few tips regarding the materials. For the outer shell of the jacket and lining, I would suggest using quilting cotton. It is stable, holds and presses well and it is the best fabric for quilting in general (or at least, it has been in my case). For the bias binding, I decided to go for ready-made to save time.

Regarding the wadding (term more widely used in the UK) or batting (as known in the US), I love a low or mid loft 80/20. This means a thin to medium thick wadding made out of 80% cotton and 20% poly. I have had VERY BAD experiences with 100% polycotton / polyester high loft waddings and wouldn't recommend them. There are also some waddings made out of bamboo or 100% cotton which are very nice but pricey.

Lastly, the thread. For quilts, I try to use 100% cotton, but I'd also go for a regular polyester Güttermann as it is widely available and what I usually use for garments. Don't fret too much about this and choose a nice quality thread that won't break.

Now, for the ones I went for and the amount I used:

• Outer fabrics: for front bodices, back bodice, sleeves and upper collar.
   
  
  • Print 'Pixel' collection from Ruby Star Society, designed by Rashida Coleman and bought at A Beautiful Thing. Colours used: Earth, Saddle, Tangerine, Dream, Peach, Cactus, Berry, Lupine and Teal: 1 fat quarter pack from which I used 9 fat quarters, 1 per colour.
    
    
  • Background is 'Tilda Solids' from Tilda Fabrics in Dove White bought at different online shops: 3 yards / 2.7m, 44'' wide.

     

•  Lining: for front bodices, back bodice, sleeves, upper collar, inseam pockets and ruffle.
  
  
• 'Linear' collection 'Labyrinth' in Lupine from Ruby Star Society designed by Rashida Coleman and bought at A Beautiful Thing: 4 yards / 3.5m. Around 3 metres are needed, 43’’ wide.

• Bias binding: in the end I went for a lilac ready-made bias tape and I used 8.7 yards / 8m. (I recommend finding out how much you need by measuring the seams you'd like to bound later on in the process).

• Wadding / batting: used for front bodices, back bodice, sleeves and upper collar.

• Low loft 80/20 cotton / poly. In total, just placing each piece under the other, I used 5 yards / 4.6m, but I know it was much less as the wadding was very wide (it usuall is) and I could place the pieces next to each other easily. I might have used in the end around 2.2 yards / 2m or 2.7 yards / 2.5m.

• Thread for piecing, quilting and sewing pieces together: 
• 1 x 500m and part of 1 x 1000m 414 Gütermann 100% polyester for piecing, quilting and sewing pieces of the jacket together.

HOW I KNEW HOW MUCH FABRIC TO GET

As I mentioned above, after getting the pattern printed, I would check both size charts to decide which size works best for you. Remember that it might be a good idea to size up to allow room for the several layers of material that you will end up having. When you are happy with your chosen size, cut the pattern pieces needed (mentioned above) and place them on a flat surface (table, floor...). We will be modifing a couple of them at a later stage, although you will be able to go with the original design if you prefer.

After this, pick up some sheets of paper (any old, regular paper would do) and cut a few 3 1/4''x3 1/4'' squares (or your desired square size for the quilt design you have come up with). Then, place them underneath your pattern pieces. You are basically creating the fabric for the outer shell of your jacket out of squares sewn and quilted together for each pattern piece. The squares will help you to know how many squares and blocks you need to cut / create and how much fabric you will need to get. 

You can start for example with the front bodice and then reuse those squares for the rest of the pieces, cutting more if needed. It is important to highlight now that the fabric that you are creating for each pattern piece needs to be more or less 2''/5cm bigger than the actual pattern piece itself, all around. Also remember that these squares are not yet sewn together. 

After finishing each piece, I would suggest taking a picture to remember the disposition and the number of squares that you will be needing. 

In my case, I also used Illustrator to create a similar layout for each pattern piece.

During this stage, you can also calculate the amount of fabric neeeded, which will depend a lot on whether you use scraps, go for the same design as mine or if you use plain squares. It will also depend on your chosen size for the jacket and size of the squares / blocks themselves.

I used Illustrator again for this part creating artboards with the real width of fabric as well as 3 1/4''x3 1/4'' squares for the solid fabric and 1 1/2''x1 1/2'' squares for the 9-patch blocks. You can also calculate the amount of fabric needed by measuring the different shapes that you have created using the paper squares and multiplying by whichever number of squares you have. And again, all of this will depend on the fabrics you go for, how many different ones you want to use, the design, your size, etc...

This process needs to be done before you buy any fabric. For the lining and wadding / batting, I would measure the shape that you have created with the paper squares and order more or less the same.

NOTE: Next time (on the 11th of November), we will start cutting, so if you want to pre-wash your fabrics before then, you can do that now, mainly if you are planning on washing your jacket on the washing machine later on. I always recommend hand-washing even after pre-washing your fabrics, just in case. No need to wash the wadding / batting. Sometimes quilting fabric needs to get its shine and 'rigidity' back after washing, which you can achieve by using starch spray.

Last, you will be quilting these 'pieces of fabric' with the wadding / batting and lining BEFORE cutting the actual pattern pieces.

OTHER USEFUL TOOLS / MATERIALS

Last, apart from the fabric, wadding/batting, bias tape, thread and your usual set of sewing tools, I recommend here a few other items that will make your job much easier (not mandatory, but very useful!).

• A walking foot for the quilting part (and that you can use afterwards for sewing with jersey and knit fabrics or for making other quilts) and a 1/4'' presser foot for a precise seam allowance.
• A rotary cutter and a cutting mat.
• Machine quilting needles for piecing and quilting.
• A 6'' x 12'' quilting ruler and a set of square rulers (not mandatory but they help a lot!).
• Curved safety pins for the basting part (you can also use thread and a needle).
• Clips to use instead or as well as pins when dealing with several layers of material.
• A fabric marker: Frixion pen, chalk, fabric pen... (Test them on a scrap of the same fabric you will be using for your jacket to make sure the mark disappear). 

And that is it for Intro Week! I hope it was not too much. I promise that as soon as you have this figured out, the rest of the posts will be much more visual and fun :) Now you have a two-week break to gather your materials, get the pattern printed, find your size, etc... I will see you again on Saturday the 11th of November!

PS. You can contact me at any time on Instagram or by email at hi@cocowawacrafts.com if you have any doubts :)

Thank you for tagging along and happy sewing and quilting!

Ana

xxx