Marta's Hacked Nutmeg Jacket

September 30, 2024

Hi lovely sewists! And welcome back to another guest post where an amazing maker from the sewing community hacks one of the CocoWawa patterns :)

This time, we have with us the lovely Marta (aka @bettyhosten on Instagram), who wanted to share her own take on one of our most popular patterns, the Nutmeg Trench and Jacket.

Check out her waistcoat version below and the steps she followed to make it!

Marta's hacked's Nutmeg Jacket

Follow all the steps to replicate her version in her own words

Months ago, while strolling through the high streets, I spotted a charming quilted vest in black and white gingham. Like many sewists, I thought, "I can make that!" This inspiration led me to create my own version.

The standout feature was the collar, which immediately reminded me of the Nutmeg jacket pattern. It was perfect for my project. Coincidentally, Ana was working on a quilted version, which further fueled my vision: to hack the jacket pattern into a vest.

Pattern modifications

First, I used the front bodice, back bodice, upper collar, lower collar and ruffle pieces from the Nutmeg Jacket pattern.
I also sized-up following recommendations for quilted versions to ensure freedom of movement.
I removed the front placket for buttons from the front bodice piece and adjusted the shoulders and side seams. For this, I removed 2cm from the shoulders shoulder and reduced 1-2cm sideways (see image). I traced again the new lines following the same curve. Remember to make the changes in both front and back bodice pieces.

Lastly, I shortened it the jacket version for a cropped look. As I am finishing the raw edges with bias tape, I didn’t add any margin.

TIP: Remember to make a toile first to ensure the fit and style suit your preferences.

Materials used

Outer fabric: Floral cotton twill from the Encants market in Barcelona.
Lining: 100% organic cotton, 'Bakery cakes' from the 'Buttercream' collection by Emily Taylor.
Labels: Pink outside label from I Love Kutchi Shop, black inside label from Kylie and The Machine.

Steps to follow

1. Since I skipped the patchwork design, I began with the third week of the quilt-along blog. I prepared the quilt sandwich, creating a diagonal rhombus pattern with 6cm-wide lines.

2. Joined front and back at shoulders, binding seams with bias tape. I omitted pockets in this version, but I believe inset pockets would be an excellent addition.

3. Added the collar, incorporating a ric-rac ribbon for extra flair. After quilting the upper collar piece, sew the ribbon along the margin at 1.5cm (1cm for the seam allowance plus 0.5cm of space).

4. Finished by joining sides, adding bias tape to all edges including armholes, and attaching buttons.

I'm absolutely thrilled with how this vest turned out! It's been such a fun journey from spotting that cute gingham vest in the shop to actually creating my own version.

I've put my own spin on it, and I'm loving every bit of it - from the quirky floral fabric to that adorable ric-rac detail on the collar. It's not just a piece of clothing; it's a little slice of my creativity that I get to wear. Can't wait to strut around in my handmade piece!