Hello makers and welcome to a new sewing technique post! This time it is all about sewing with knits and stretchy fabrics: tips, tricks and best machines and tools to make your job easier. Let's start!
Sewing with knits
I've divided this post in two parts. The first part is for those who own an overlocker or serger; the second one is if you are going to use only your sewing machine. Either way, you will find how you can make any garment that uses a stretchy or knitted fabric using just the overlocker, a regular sewing machine or both.
NOTE: You can practice all of these tips with the Chestnut Sweater and Top patern and with the super cute Pumpkin Cardigan and CardiDress sewing pattern, both perfect for Autumn!
If you own an overlocker/serger:
• To find the 3/8’’/1cm seam allowance mark on your overlocker, which is the usual SA on most patterns, measure the distance from your left needle (on two-needle machines) to one of the marks usually placed to the right of the needle plate, if it doesn’t say it already. That will be your seam allowance.
If you don’t have any markings, you can measure with your seam gauche, tape measure or small ruler from your left needle and make a mark with tape or a pen on your machine as shown below.
• Depending on the type of fabric you are using, you might need to change the tension dials on your overlocker. Go between 4 and 5 if it's a medium to heavy-weight fabric with little stretch and in between 3 and 4 if going for a lighter stretchy fabric.
In any case, always test on a scrap of the same fabric and adjust accordingly.
This is how an overlocked seam should look like.
You can also check on your overlocker's instructions for more examples of right and wrong tension to help you out.
• The differential feed is also key to helping with unwanted gathering, stretching or puckering on seams and hems. I usually leave it at 1.0 or less. Regarding the length of the stitch, go for the one that comes by default, between 2.5 and 3. Do the same with the width, leaving it at 5.
• To secure your thread tails after overlocking a seam, don’t cut them. Use a fabric fray check glue (apply a drop at both ends of a seam and let it dry) or tack them inside the actual overlock stitch so they don’t come undone. You can do this while you sew by changing the position of the garment to the opposite side.
• Last, don’t get pins near the blade as they will ruin it and always start with your blade up at its highest position to facilitate the first stitches and keep the work in place.
Now, if you are using a regular sewing machine:
• The best needle to use with knits on a regular machine is a ball point or jersey needle.
• When sewing, select the zigzag stitch, preferably with a width of 0.5mm and a 2.5mm length. It is also recommended changing the presser foot dial to 1.
A good zigzag stitch on a seam on a knit fabric should look like this on the outside (pic below).
And like this on the inside.
• Invest on a walking foot as it will make your work so much easier. The walking foot is designed to provide an extra set of feed dogs for the top of the fabric being sewn (apart from the feed dogs underneath) helping with difficult fabrics (slippery or fragile) and with knits as well. It can be a bit pricey, if you get the real deal depending on your sewing machine brand, but trust me, you will love it.
• You don’t need to finish your seams with knits but if you want them to look a bit neater on the inside, use pinking shears.
• Finish something like a neckline and/or hems using a double / twin needle.
• And again, always check on a scrap how your fabric behaves with the different tension options and adjust accordingly.
And that's it for this post everyone! I hope you found it interesting. I will be back with more techniques next month!
Happy sewing (and overlocking!),
Ana
xx